USED PARTS & AUTOWRECKERS

Reuseable or recycled auto parts can be an economical, perfectly sound solution to your auto repair problems.
Contact the autowrecker with what you need - you usually save 50% of new part purchase price!

How to make a request or order:

• email, phone or fax orders are taken
• most salvage yards accept Visa/Mastercard, certified cheque, money orders and cash, and will ship COD
• tell the parts person what year, make, model of car you need the part for, and be prepared to answer additional information such as body/interior color, transmission type( automatic or standard, 3spd, 4spd, 5spd) engine configuration & size, fuel system type (injection or carburetion, gas or diesel or propane), whether or not it has power steering, power brakes, power windows, power door locks, cruise control, etc.
• Some wreckers might ask for the serial number of the vehicle

Guarantees
Most used parts are guaranteed with a replacement guarantee (which is usually time-limited - find out what the limit is!), which does not cover labor charges to install/remove the parts.  When purchasing electrical components, be sure to check whether or not they are returnable.  Each autowrecker offers their own guarantee, so make sure you find out what the terms are before you make the purchase.

Shipping
Salvage yards will ship almost anything anywhere, and most orders are shipped the day you place the order.  Remember to find out what the shipping charges (if any) might be, so you don't get a  shock when the bill comes.  Wreckers usually ship orders with one company, but most are willing to ship with the company of your choice.
 

Don't be afraid of  recycled parts; remember - every car on the road contains used parts.

What kinds of things should I look for when examining the body of a potential used car/truck purchase?

There are several things to watch out for.  First, make sure you look at the vehicle during the day.  Darkness has a way of hiding problems.  Examine around moldings, window moldings, wheelwells and other areas where rust might be creeping out from hidden places. "Bubbling" paint is an almost sure sign of rust and/or repairs.  Pay special attention to the trunk floor and interior floorboards.  Pull up the carpeting, look at the bottom of the doors, trunklid and hood.  Take a magnet and a piece of paper with you. Place the sheet of paper flat on suspect areas and see how well the magnet sticks to the body through the paper.  Wherever the magnet doesn't stick (or sticks weakly), there's probably filler underneath, or fibreglass.  Next, look carefully at the gaps between body panels, doors, trunks, moldings, hoods, etc.  The gaps should be fairly evenly spaced, and the panels centred (even gaps on both sides).  Uneven gaps could indicate that the vehicle has been in an accident, and has been repaired.  The time you spend before you purchase can save you major repair bills down the road.

-My brake pedal pulses when I apply the brakes.  Why?

Generally, this occurs in vehicles that have disc brakes.  When the rotors (the "donuts" behind the wheels) overheat or get worn too thin, they become warped.  The pulsing happens when the brake pads squeeze the warped rotor.  Other causes can be loose or worn suspension or steering components, but warped rotors are almost always the cause.  Don't be fooled, by a pulsing pedal if your car has Anti-Lock Brakes.  Pulsing indicates that the ABS system is working on newer cars that are so equipped.

-Do I have to replace the rotors when they are warped or glazed?

Rotors have a service life determined by how thick they are at the time of servicing.  If there is enough "meat" left, a service facility can "turn" them.  Turning involves removing material from the rotor/pad contact surface with a machine.  The rotors are machined back to their original condition (albeit thinner).  Some rotors can be turned, others cannot.  If in doubt, call your dealer or refer to a  manual to check the specifications.

-How do I know when my brakes need servicing?

There are "squealers" on most braking systems that warn the owner that it's time to replace pads or shoes, by making a squeaking/squealing noise when the brakes are applied.  A good habit to get into is to have your mechanic take a quick visual inspection of the condition of the pads whenever he's under the car.  It only takes a minute.  Rear brakes, if they are drum type, require some disassembly to inspect them, but they must also be periodically inspected.  Front brakes almost always wear out much quicker than rear brakes.

-What does uneven wear on my front tires indicate?

The alignment of the steering and suspension components is critical.  If the front end is out of alignment, the tires will not wear evenly.  Misalignment symptoms include : pulling to one side, and  a steering wheel that is not centred when the car is moving straight ahead.  Another cause of uneven wear is improperly inflated tires.  Tires that are under inflated will show more wear near the edges of the tire contact patch.  Over inflated tires will wear the centre of the contact patch.

Some common sense rules to keep in mind when purchasing a used car, truck, motorcycle, boat or RV:

1.  Always do your homework before you decide on which model, style, etc. will suit your needs best and give you the         best possible service, at the lowest operating cost, for the longest  time.  Check consumer reviews publications, talk to industry experts (service people), ask people who own or have owned something similar.  See if they were satisfied, and if they'd buy another one.

2.  The fifty bucks or so you spend getting a potential purchase thoroughly checked out  prior to buying it can save you a whole heap of headaches, hassles and hard earned dollars down the road. When purchasing from a dealer, get it checked out by your own mechanic.  If that isn't possible, make sure the dealership puts in writing what's wrong with the machine, and offers some kind of warranty.  Remember, once you buy it, in most cases it's almost impossible to take it back!

3.  Do a lien search on the vehicle/boat to be sure that there are no outstanding claims against it.  If you buy it and there is a lien against it, YOU  pay( or you lose your new purchase ).

4.  Don't be afraid to ask the vendor a lot of pertinent questions about the vehicle.  Get whatever service history (records, if possible) you can, and find out exactly why he/she is selling it.  The more you know now, the less surprises you'll get later.

5.  If you aren't familiar with the technology, servicing lingo and the general info required to make an assessment, take someone along with you who is knowledgeable.  Let them ask some questions, look at the item and advise you of what they think.

-My car quit on me,  and my mechanic tells me that my "brain-box" needs replacing.  He says that he can't test it, so it might be the problem, but it might not.  What's the deal, here?

The "brain-box"  (or CDI, or computer, or electronic ignition) is a sealed unit that is difficult, if not impossible to test for faults.  Some CDI units can be tested by a dealer with the proper diagnostic equipment.  Some cannot.   Sometimes it can quit completely, sometimes intermittently.  The main thing to remember is that electrical parts are usually not returnable.   The only way to avoid paying for a computer that you don't need is to be sure that it is the problem, and the only way to be sure is to have your mechanic eliminate as many other (cheaper)possibilities as he can.  If he tries to sell you a new CDI right away (without checking everything else out first or using a diagnostic computer), then get another opinion (and maybe a new mechanic).  Brains are expensive!!!

Is there any roadside way to tell whether it's the alternator or the battery when my battery keeps going flat?

There are a couple of ways to test these components.  If you have a load tester, you can check the battery's condition and it's ability to hold a charge.  A multimeter will tell you how much juice the alternator is producing and if the regulator/rectifier unit is working.  If you don't have these testing devices, there is an easy way to get a rough idea of whether or not the alternator is doing it's job.  Start the engine, pop the hood and remove the negative wire from the battery terminal. If the engine keeps running, then the alternator is working.  If the engine quits, then there is probably a problem with the charging system.  Bear in mind, though, that this test is only a rough indicator, and charging problems should be checked out with the proper equipment as soon as possible.

BE SURE TO CHECK WITH YOUR DEALER BEFORE YOU PERFORM THIS "ROADSIDE" TEST!! SOME NEWER VEHICLES DO NOT TAKE KINDLY TO THE DISCONNECTION OF THEIR NEGATIVE BATTERY LEAD.  IF YOUR VEHICLE HAPPENS TO BE ONE OF THIS GROUP, YOU COULD CAUSE THE COMPUTER TO SHUT DOWN OR RESET ITSELF, AND THEN YOU'LL NEED TO TOW IT TO A GARAGE.

-My car quit on me,  and my mechanic tells me that my "brain-box" needs replacing.  He says that he can't test it, so it might be the problem, but it might not.  What's the deal, here?

The "brain-box"  (or CDI, or computer, or electronic ignition) is a sealed unit that is difficult, if not impossible to test for faults.  Some CDI units can be tested by a dealer with the proper diagnostic equipment.  Some cannot.   Sometimes it can quit completely, sometimes intermittently.  The main thing to remember is that electrical parts are usually not returnable.   The only way to avoid paying for a computer that you don't need is to be sure that it is the problem, and the only way to be sure is to have your mechanic eliminate as many other (cheaper)possibilities as he can.  If he tries to sell you a new CDI right away (without checking everything else out first or using a diagnostic computer), then get another opinion (and maybe a new mechanic).  Brains are expensive!!!

What do different colors of smoke from the tailpipe of my vehicle indicate?
Blue smoke is a sign that the engine is burning oil, and that there is engine wear.  Black smoke indicates that the fuel/air mixture is rich - the carburetor or fuel-injection is putting too much fuel into the cylinders.  White "smoke" when you start up in the morning (when the engine is cold) is just steam, and is considered normal.  Billowing clouds of thick white "smoke", however, can indicate that the engine head gasket is gone and water is getting into the combustion chambers.  There are other causes, but the problem stems from the water that is being "burned".  Another indicator of a blown head gasket is oily residue in the radiator.  Remove the radiator cap (with the engine cold-  don't open rad caps of hot engines unless you've released the pressure slowly first!)  and check for milky gunk on the underside of the cap and on the surface of the coolant in the rad.  All of these conditions can lead to more serious problems, if left too long .

-How can I tell if parts were actually replaced when I had my car serviced?

Always insist on getting your old parts back, after repairs have been carried out.  Get the mechanic to go over the worn or broken parts and ask him to explain what's wrong with the used parts.  Get to know your car!  Understanding how things work is half the battle, and most things are simple, when explained in plain english. A good mechanic won't hesitate to take the time to make sure you're happy with his/her work.

Should I pay attention to the manufacturers specified maintenance intervals?

The recommended intervals supplied in your owner's manual should be considered as a rough guide only.  Whenever possible, do maintenance more often than what is recommended. While your manual might  tell you to change your oil and filter every 7,000 kms. for example, changing  it  more often will reduce engine wear and reduce repair bills.  Another thing to keep in mind is that operating conditions can greatly affect recommended maintenance schedules.  Vehicles that spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic need more frequent maintenance, as do those operated regularly in extremely hot or cold climates.  A good policy is to consider manufacturers recommendations as the longest interval between servicing.  Also, components don't pay attention to "recommended intervals", and wear out when they want to.  Make a habit of listening (for unusual noises), looking (for smoke, fluid leaks, broken components,etc.), and feeling (for vibrations, pulling to one side, dragging brakes, thumping, etc.).

1.  MAINTENANCE ALWAYS COSTS YOU LESS THAN BREAKDOWNS AND REPAIRS.

2. Get "in touch" with your car, truck, RV or motorcycle. Learn to listen and feel how it runs normally. Then you have the chance to catch little problems before they turn into big problems. Your best early warning devices are your own five senses (maybe six) .

3. Don't be intimidated by a mechanic. If your gut or intuition tells you that you're getting snowed, get another opinion.

4. Remember, a certificate on the wall is just a piece of paper. It does not guarantee that the ticket holder knows what he/she is doing, or more importantly, that he/she cares about you or your business.

5.  Unfortunately, there are mechanics that take advantage of some customers, often preying on women and senior citizens. Again, if you're unsure, get another opinion, or, better yet, take someone you trust who is knowledgeable with you to the shop.

6. Once you find a mechanic that does good work, stands behind his/her work, works at a reasonable rate and believes in proper customer service practices.... TELL EVERYONE WHO MIGHT WANT TO KNOW!!! Tell your family, friends and associates. Tell anyone who'll listen. Word of mouth advertising is the best way to make sure that quality wins out over mediocrity, incompetence and apathy.

7.  Just because a mechanic has a big name corporation under the nametag on his coveralls, does not guarantee that he is a competent mechanic. Some of the best wrench pullers run their own, independent shops.

8.  To find the right mechanic, ask around. Ask your friends. Determine which of your friends/relatives/associates knows the most about vehicles, and ask him/her who they would go to. Take their suggestion, go to that shop, ask the owner for references and check those references out. Phone the Better Business Bureau.

9.  SERVICING YOUR VEHICLE IS MORE THAN JUST MAKING SURE THAT YOU CAN GET AROUND RELIABLY.  SOMEONE'S LIFE COULD DEPEND ON IT.  MAKE SURE YOUR TRANSPORTATION IS SAFE!!!

1.  Be honest.  Trying to hide problems or deficiencies in what you're selling can come back to haunt you.  If you're aware of something, let the potential purchaser know.  If they get the vehicle checked out, they're going to find out anyways.

2.  Present your merchandise in the best possible light.  Clean it up - inside, under, on top and outside.  A dirty vehicle turns a lot of people away from buying it.   Trying to hide rust holes with multiple  mud baths just won't work.

3.  Give the car a servicing before you advertise it.  Tune it up, change the fluids and filters.  Replace severely worn components, such as tires and belts.  Selling an unsafe vehicle is not only unethical, it's also illegal in some cases. Making sure that everything works before the interested party comes to look saves you the embarassment of explaining why this or that doesn't work as you hastily try to fix the problem while the buyer looks on.  Trust me, this has happened to me.  And if something is ready to go or is intermittently on the fritz and you don't fix it beforehand, you can be sure that it will screw up at the worst possible moment during your sales pitch ( probably just as you're confidently boasting that  "yep, this here's a real gem.  Runs just like the day it rolled out of the showroom!")